The rites held within sports stadiums inspire such intense emotions (hope, despair, ecstasy, even awe) that sportswriters and cultural critics often liken these arenas to modern cathedrals. Like churches, stadiums are also often among our most ambitious and creative architectural achievements, embodying both civic pride and near-tribal allegiance.
Here, then, is a list of the stadiums that—because of their history, their dynamic atmosphere, or their structural excellence—warrant pilgrimages from sports fans.
La Bombonera ("The Chocolate Box"), Buenos Aires
When the Estadio Alberto J. Armando, which hosts famed soccer club Boca Juniors, opened in 1940, it was immediately dubbed the chocolate box, or "la Bombonera." Legend has it that the nickname was derived when the stadium's engineer received a box of chocolates, or "bombones," that looked just like the new structure. The arena does have a unique shape, with dizzyingly steep stands forming a "D" that tightly encloses the field. Argentinean soccer fans are a volatile lot (last season the league briefly banned them from traveling to away matches), and the distinctive architecture of La Bombonera adds to the mayhem. Spectators are literally on top of one another, and the walls form a deafening canyon. Fireworks are lit, the pitch is littered with projectiles, and, incidentally, a soccer match is played. Plan your trip to coincide with the Superclasico between Boca Juniors and River Plate, one of the greatest rivalries in sports.
Croke Park, Dublin
The Irish play some of the quickest and roughest team sports in the world, and there's no better place to see them than Croke Park. A historic stadium in the Drumcondra section of north Dublin, "Croker" has hosted Gaelic games since the 1880s. A major redevelopment over the last decade and a half expanded the capacity to 82,300. The multi-tiered stands wonderfully blend the old and the new construction, and keep all the viewers close to the action. Go in late summer for the GAA All-Ireland finals in Gaelic football (a cross between rugby and soccer) or hurling, a fast-paced field game in which men smack a ball (and each other) with long wooden sticks. When I attended a hurling match there recently, a skinny old man in font of me leapt from his seat and punched the air. "Rip into 'em, Kelly!" he kept shouting. I was hooked.
Estadio da Luz, Lisbon
The sporting traveler can visit several of the most picturesque and architecturally advanced stadiums in the world without leaving Portugal. Seven new venues were erected and three existing locations were remodeled for the Euro 2004 soccer tournament, and they all reflect how EU membership has visually transformed the tiny nation. In Braga, a small open-ended arena was built right into the side of a mountain, sporting asymmetrical grandstands that look like crazy concrete Zs. In Aveiro, the brightly colored arena resembles a big toy. In Leiria, the new stadium, which sits just below the town's 12th-century castle, is capped with a transparent wave-like roof. But the jewel in the Lusitanian crown is Lisbon's landmark Estadio da Luz, built in 2003. Red beams arc above the polycarbonate roof, brightening the city's skyline. Inside, the 65,000-seater is luminous and surprisingly intimate. Book your tickets for the intracity rivalry between Benfica and Sporting.
Hong Kong Stadium
Every March the rugby world descends on the residential neighborhood of So Kon Po for the Hong Kong Sevens, a huge three-day party disguised as an international sports tournament. "Sevens" is a thrilling, fast-paced variation on rugby in which teams play with seven men instead of 15 for 15 minutes at a time. The stunning 40,000-seat stadium with its dramatic white canopies was built in 1994. The open ends of the structure provide views of dense greenery and gleaming skyscrapers. But the real view is inside. Passionate fans paint flags (Fiji, Wales, U.S.A.) on their faces and watch up to 24 games a day while eating, drinking, and singing about eating and drinking. Get ready to join in the 300th chorus of "Who ate all the pies?"
KeySpan Park, Coney Island, Brooklyn
Brooklyn was a baseball town even before the local club, the Bridegrooms, won its first pennant in 1889. But the Bridegrooms—known today as the Los Angeles Dodgers—headed west in 1958, leaving the borough in mourning. Now the national pastime is back in the form of the class-A minor league Cyclones. Even without all this neighborhood nostalgia, KeySpan Park would be a required destination for fastball aficionados. Built in 2001, it sits right on the Atlantic Ocean, which is visible beyond right field. In left, the roller coasters and Ferris wheels of Astroland amusement park whip around in the distance. Clever architectural details—the boardwalk that runs between the stands, the colored neon lights—make the stadium a carnival of its own. Head for the park on a hot summer night when Coney Island is brightest, and buy your tickets early. The 7,500 seats fill up. You don't want to be muttering the old Dodgers mantra: "Wait till next year."
Notre Dame Stadium, South Bend, Indiana
When I was 8-years-old, my father took my brother and me on a pilgrimage. We packed in an RV and drove from Philadelphia to South Bend, Indiana, to see Notre Dame play football. The day before the game I walked across the empty field, which seemed immense. Outside the gates, I looked up at the looming mosaic of Jesus with his arms outstretched. For many, college football is a religious experience, complete with elaborate rituals and blind faith. And Notre Dame Stadium, an 80,000 plus-seat oval built in 1930 for Knute Rockne's men and renovated in the 1990s, is hallowed ground. Sure, Michigan has the biggest capacity, Tennessee has the river, Pasadena has the roses, but only South Bend has Touchdown Jesus.
Plaza de Toros de la Real Maestranza de Caballeria, Sevilla
As you walk past the statue of Carmen and enter Spain's oldest bullring, you'll be struck by the white and ochre baroque façade. Two stately towers flank the beautiful Puerta del Príncipe, the Prince's Door. Inside, marble colonnades line the upper deck and support a series of shade-producing arches. Since the mid-18th century, when the ovoid ring was constructed, the Maestranza has been a proving ground for the country's finest matadors. The best time to go is in late April when there are bullfights every afternoon for the Feria. If a matador does particularly well, he'll be carried out the Prince's Gate, past Carmen, and into history.
Sapporo Dome, Japan
It comes as no surprise that the Japanese have built some of the most technologically advanced and visually unique stadiums in the world. Behold the Sapporo Dome. Located on the frigid northern island of Hokkaido, the oblong silver shell looks like a giant Sony Discman. Its aerodynamic shape aids climate control through a complex ventilation system, and the fiberglass roof transmits natural light. The arena features a baseball diamond that can be rolled up and a moveable "floating" soccer field. After soccer matches, an air-driven system rotates the pitch ninety degrees and blows it out into the sun. Check out the observatory at the top of the dome, where you can view mountains, a beautiful green valley, and the city of Sapporo. Visit in summer and catch the Consadole Sapporo soccer team or the Nippon Ham Fighters, the 2006 champions of Japanese baseball.
Saratoga Race Course, Saratoga Springs, NY
The oldest major racetrack in America is also the most elegant. Built in 1864, Saratoga continues to host the sport of kings each summer on its 350-acre plot. The wooden grandstands and clubhouse retain their original charm and provide great views of the track. The jockeys still walk their horses through the grounds, and the crowd is still a mix of serious bettors and Sunday strollers. The premier event of the season is the Travers Stakes, which has been taking place each August since the track was open (It pre-dates the Kentucky Derby by a decade). But it's also nice to visit Saratoga on a weekday afternoon in late summer when hardcore race fans harmonize with the leafy, mellow surroundings.
Wimbledon, London
In 1877, The All England Lawn Tennis and Croquet Club rented a few courts near London and held the first Wimbledon tournament. As fate would have it, it rained, and the final was delayed for an hour. Since then, the world's premier tennis event has transformed considerably, but the weather hasn't. Finally Centre Court, opened in 1922 when Wimbledon moved to its current site, is getting some protection from the elements—a retractable roof. But roof or no roof, the tournament is still a joy. The sea of green courts—19 in all—spreads around the grounds, providing continuous diversion. And even though the main stadium is being expanded to 15,000 seats, it still feels cozy. (The U.S Open's Arthur Ashe Stadium, by contrast, seats over 22,500.) Be there to see four-time defending champion Roger Federer play, and bring your umbrella. The roof won't be completed until 2009.
Austin Kelley writes about sports and leisure. His work has appeared in The New Yorker, The New York Times, and Slate, and he edits The Modern Spectator, an online sports journal.
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