Italians have long appreciated versatility. There was da Vinci of course, but also my Neapolitan nana, who taught me that a wooden spoon could both stir a serious ragu and administer a painful punishment. Since the mid–1980s, Fay, a Le Marche–based company owned by luxe purveyor Tod's Group, has carried on the ambidextrous Italian tradition with smart–looking coats that are as at ease riding a Ducati around Rome as they are hurling down the Alpine slopes of Cortina—and they also work for a run to the corner deli. Turned out of high–quality, rumple–proof fabrics like leather, ripstop and Cordura nylon, velvet, and houndstooth cotton, this travel–minded collection offers frequent flier incentives like pockets for plane tickets and passports. One model from seasons past—the Stadium Jacket—has pile hand warmers and a detachable seat cover to make chilly spectator Sundays more bearable.
The lone problem with the line, until now, has been laying your hands on it, since it was only available in Europe—not that logistics stopped George Clooney or Clint Eastwood from procuring their coats. After decades of outfitting Continental types, Fay finally arrives in the U.S. at Barneys New York this fall, bringing its trademark multi–tasking sensibility to our Yankee work hard/play hard set. The U.S. landing is a homecoming of sorts for the meaty 4–Hook jacket, introduced at the company's birth and named for the coat's four metallic hook closures, a style quirk borrowed from the uniforms of American firefighters. Perhaps this would explain the attraction for one of Fay's first U.S. inspectors: Kevin O'Hare, a Manhattan stock trader who also works several days a week with Engine 65 of the New York City Fire Department. "Working as a firefighter and a trader can bring heat in many forms," says the protean O'Hare. "They're both very male–dominated environments, but also very different. Fay jackets are great, though. I can wear them to the firehouse, and still feel like one of the guys—they're not going to call me a Suit. Then I can go trade at the office and fit in there as well. That's not an easy transition to make."
The Wall Street–ready Fay jacket shown here on O'Hare is called the Double Coat for a reason: The extra inner layer can be unfastened and worn solo. While this multi–modal functionality might seem standard issue now, the design marked an innovation when it was launched 25 years ago, since it featured one of the first removable internal vests to insulate the upper body and shut out icy winds. To accommodate less blustery climes, the Fay brand has since grown to encompass 45 different men's items—from pants and dress shirts to sweaters—a streamlined gamut meant to suit guys who don't want to bother with frequent costume changes. Climate, setting, companions notwithstanding.
